Month: February 2016

50 Days in Madrid, Our Thoughts and Reflections

Hermanos Logo

This sums up some of the highlights of the wonderful time we had in Madrid. While there are a number of things we didn’t do during our stay in Madrid, I don’t regret them either because I feel we’ll be back one day or we’ll have opportunities for them elsewhere in Spain.

Madrid Highlights

  • We walked everywhere and it proved to be a great way to see the City, but the metro is also a great way to get around.
  • The museums were beautiful both in terms of the buildings and their collections, with the Thyssen being my favorite.
  • We never really had an agenda….we would often head and there’s always plenty to see, do or places to stop and get a cafe , a cana, or a tapa.
  • The weather rocked. for someone who detests the summer (that’s correct, you will not find me in Spain in August) yet appreciates the seasons, Madrid in January was perfect temperature-wise like a cross between spring and fall.
  • We had an awesome day trip to Segovia. Fast, inexpensive and memorable.
  • We had some very tasty meals…..a special shout out to Hermanos Valdivieso, Juan Raro, and La Falda, favorite neighborhood places.
  • Our neighborhood Lavapies was a really cool place to stay and feel like a local. It is a working class area and very much a melting pot of cultures, religions, and languages. As a native New Yorker and life-long city-phile, it didn’t seem unusual and actually felt quite natural.
  • With so many people speaking English, it’s okay if your Spanish is lackluster. Unfortunately, we would welcome English-speaking when ordering or asking questions. As a result this of course impeded both our learning and our attitude to push ourselves.

 

Now for some things we didn’t do.

  • Drink sangria – Not many places offer this beverage and it could be because the wine is so good. Why mess with it? Many places do offer a different type of sangria called tinto de verano, which translated means red of summer. This drink is comprised of red wine and seltzer, either plain or flavored and served on ice.
    • As a side note I have been filling up and taste testing Sangria, Tinto de Verano, and Vermut all over Seville. Verdict….two thumbs up and a great alternative if you’re not in the mood for wine nor a cocktail.
  • Eat paella – I did have this as a starter to one of my menu del dia lunches, but it wasn’t the real thing, I think it was just rice with seafood and meat….it wasn’t slow cooked, or made with abborio rice. Not too worried aboiut this though. With Seville closer to the coast plus I already have my eye on visits to coastal places like Cadiz and Malaga, paella will be a something I order soon.
  • Try better Cocido Madrileño – we took part in the deconstructed cocido meal that our landlord recommended. Basically vegetables and various types of meat are all cooked together but when it comes time to eating, it is served in courses rather than just one main dish. The first course consists of the broth with some angel hair pasta. The second course is comprised of all the things that flavored soup, cabbage, carrots, potatoes and the various meats, pork, veal. It was interesting, but it wasn’t fantastic. It did remind me of Sunday meals from my childhood when my dad would break down a whole chicken, roast or fry some of it for dinner along with potatoes and a creamed vegetable side dish, freeze some of it for another time and then use the gizzards and other odds and ends to make homemade chicken soup which I detested, but now appreciate and understand the relevance behind using everything to make an amazing tasting soup.
  • Go see a flamenco show – Seville is the place to go for this anyway….. there are many places near us, so this will be on an evening agenda in the next week or so.
  • Take more days trips – Yes it would have been nice to go see cities like Toledo and Salamanca, but who says we won’t! Maybe we’ll drive north from Seville and stay a few night in each of these places.
  • Improve our Spanish – this is a big one and I just don’t have the focus to dedicate time each day. What’s interesting is even with some of the language and customs we learned in Madrid, some of it is not relevant or may be a bit different in Seville. With hopes of traveling to both the Basque and Catalonian regions maybe we’ll just continue getting by our on goods looks and charm!
  • Shop – this is more of a can’t do rather than a didn’t do. With a large and small suitcase stuffed when we originated from the U.S., I can’t afford to buy one ounce of product until I use all of what I have up. So while yes there have been some ring and earring purchases, they have been small enough to cram into a nook of one of my suitcase. I’ll just continue to window shop through Europe 😦
by AnnaD

Daydreams about Seville

Except for locating supermercados around us, I didn’t do much in planning for our one-month in Seville before getting here. All I really knew was that the City is rich in history and architecture and I wanted to see and experience it all. Check out some cool pics above.

I did do some research the last few days and while this is not an exhaustive list,  these are some cool things we should do and go see.

  • Uncover every nook and cranny of Seville by walking everywhere maybe even two or three times.
  • Go see a flamenco show – Museo del Baile Flamenco is a museum but also offers performances on a nightly basis
  • Dine by the river or possiblly take a river cruise
  • Visit
    • Alcazar of Seville
    • Casa de Murillo
    • Cathedral of Santa Maria de Vitoria
    • Costurero de la Reina
    • Museum of Fine Arts of Seville
    • Palace of the Countess of Lebrija
    • Palace of San Telmo
  • Go see
    • Giralda – bell tower
    • Maria Luisa Park
    • Metropol Parasol – wooden structure in the middle of a plaza
    • Plaza de España
    • Puente del Alamaillo – cable bridge
  • Take days trips from Seville – Cadiz, Granada or Malaga
  • Window shop
  • Redevelop some muscle tone
by AnnaD

Quick Tips About Madrid

 

I wanted to share some insight into Madrid that may not be gleaned from just reading a guidebook.

  • Want a beer? Ask for, una cana – never say cerveza
  • Need water? Ask for una jarra de agua. Water is never brought to the table or offered, and if you just ask for water you’ll get bottled water. This request is for a pitcher of tap water.
  • You can easily fill up on tapas and beer or wine from 5 – 8 pm for less than 10 euros and skip dinner all together. Depending on the size of the tapas, after a few you might find yourself full and no longer hungry for a sit-down meal.
  • Need the check? Servers in Madrid hardly ever come by to ask if you’re meal is okay or if you need anything else. You’ll need to make some serious eye contact and say, la cuenta, por favor.
  • There are some fun alternatives to wine. After trying almost every single rosé wine in Madrid, I started looking into different options for quenching my thirst and pairing my food with. We uncovered Vermut, which is simply vermouth on ice, but can be tasty as a digestif, or an after dinner drink. Another beverage is tinto de verano, which is red wine with soda either flavored (like Sprite) or plain seltzer. It’s refreshing and a little lighter if you’re not looking to get toasted.
  • Centro, the central section of Madrid can be very hilly. Walk the wrong way and you’ll end up climbing up hill both leaving home and when coming home.
  • Tap water in Madrid is very good, so go ahead and drink it.

 

by AnnaD

Traveling to Sevilla

On Thursday, we departed Madrid and headed to Seville. We took a two and a half hour train ride from Madrid to Seville covering over 300 miles. Apparently all modes of transportation are awesome in Spain (see posts on Metro and Segovia). Fast, clean, well designed, and spacious.We are staying in the neighborhood of Triana

We are staying in the neighborhood of Triana which is a very old part of the City. It is quaint with a lot of character. The streets are narrow and the sidewalks are almost none existent. I always cringe when I see a car coming down the street and quickly plaster myself against the building in fear hoping that the cars’ side view mirror doesn’t brush my leg.  I’m often reminded of Peter Reigert’s character in Local Hero. Every time he steps out of his residence a guy on a motorcycle whips by at high speeds. So note to self…please look both ways..always.

From the two short days, we have spent here, we can already tell that we’re going to really like this place. I look forward to the posts I will be writing in the coming weeks. Stay tuned folks.

 

by AnnaD

El Metro, es Muy Bueno

We only rode the metro a few times, but from what we saw  and experience, it is one rapid and robust transportation network. Madrid’s metro system is comprised of 12 train lines covering about 183 miles of tunnel with over 200 stops. The three longest lines alone cover more than 20 miles each.

When we arrived, we invested in a 10-trip ticket which allowed us to access across most lines and for a mere 12.20 euro, this option made the most sense. It was beneficial to have this for our trip to the airport and a visit to IKEA. The only other time we rode the metro was when we ventured all the way to the outskirts of the City and the trip home on foot seemed insane. Over the course of our 50-day visit to Madrid, we only took the train eight times! The rest of the time we walked and walked and walked.

Madrid’s trains are incredibly quiet when arriving at the platform but also when you are riding it. They are also super clean. I think the only complaint we had was the trains are heated which make for very tasty rides on 60-degree days. We don’t even want to imagine how hot it must get during the summer.

One interesting note when transferring between trains is there may be about a 5-7 minute journey from one train line to the other line as you cruise up and down multiple lengthy escalators to get to your next platform. But it’s easy to determine whether you need to hasten your pace or can enjoy the ride since digital boards display the minutes until the arrival of the next train.

by AnnaD

Local Fashion in Madrid

One fashion statement that has been prevalent throughout Madrid is, jeans are in. You will not stick out and be labelled a tourist if you visit Madrid and the only thing you have brought to wear are jeans. And I am not just saying this because the bulk of our outfits are comprised of jeans. Blue jeans, black jeans, acid washed jeans (eww is right), or ripped jeans, all are perfectly acceptable.

While it hasn’t been a cold winter, Madridians are still bundled up as if it was an American northeast winter. I guess it’s all relative. Winter in Madrid may be the only winter some have known. So while the temp might read 55 degrees, the calendar indicates it’s February and so it is winter and winter equals cold.

Winter coats, hats, scarves, the whole nine yards can be seen on locals just as much on warm balmy days as cooler cloudy days. Wool coats aren’t as widely worn as you would see in the states as much as slim cut puffer coats which are also featured in window displays at Zara, Mango and H&M, some of the top clothing retailers. Boots whether, ankle or knee length or mid-calf, they are all in style but they must have at least a 2 to 3-inch heel or be a wedge.

Cross body bags are another must have. Again, I am not just saying this because this is my preferred bag so much so that I brought three of them on our trip. I say it because it’s true! Whether you are a tourist who is afraid to be pick pocketed, or a well dressed sophisticated woman, or a young professional on her way to work, most women carry cross body bags for their convenience, utility, and tastefulness.

by AnnaD

Getting Beautified in Madrid

manicure

Trying to explain some services in Madrid can be difficult even when you’re armed with the internet and the best translating tools.

Earlier on our trip, I decided I needed to bite the bullet and get that much-needed haircut that I never arranged for before leaving the States. I entered the salon and proceeded to stumble over my words trying to explain I needed a wash, trim, and style/dry. It was a bit stressful because I wasn’t sure she understood that I just wanted a trim, but 20 minutes and 8€ later, I l was out the door satisfied, but with a wet head.

The following week I popped into a place to get a manicure. I had similar fears, how would I explain that I wanted my nails filed, not cut and that I wanted a regular, not a gel, manicure which is what the woman ahead of me was getting.

I somehow muddled through the situation, but when it came time to apply the lotion and massage my hands, instead of pushing on some pressure points and gently rubbing , the manicurist started to punch the palm of my hands, she then yanked and snapped on my fingers between hers ,and then worked her way up my arm to my shoulder whaling on them as if I had insulted her and she wanted to even the score. I didn’t know if I should scream out in pain or try to show off my toughness. I decided on the latter, but as she applied the polish since I was in a tee shirt with arms uncovered, one could easily see the deep red marks up and down my arms which were not fading with the passing of time. I left the salon a bit bewildered, a little sore and not sure if I ever wanted another manicure in Madrid.

About 20 days later, with nail polish chipped, cuticles over-grown and, with a huge need for my nails to be filed, I took the plunge and went to a different salon. Feeling a little more secure and sure of myself since my initial experience, I asked to have a manicure and a pedicure. Since the proprietor was alone in the salon and already with two clients she asked me if I could wait 10 minutes and then proceeded to make a call, probably to get some more help. A little over 10 minutes later the reinforcements arrived. They were her daughters aged around 13 and 16. My first thought at 12noon on a weekday was why aren’t these children in school?, next Are they licensed, do they need to be licensed?

Since the proprietor was alone in the salon and already with two clients, she asked me if I could wait 10 minutes and then proceeded to make a call, probably to get some more help. A little over 10 minutes later the reinforcements arrived. They were her daughters aged around 13 and 16. My first thought at 12 noon on a weekday was why aren’t these children in school? Next, are they licensed, do they need to be licensed? Third, how good is this service going to be, will it just be a waste of my time? And lastly, is this really happening? I wasn’t so worried about the money since it’s dirt cheap to get your nails or hair done in Madrid.

The older daughter started my manicure, but before the polish was applied, I was instructed to go to the back to start soaking my feet. The back room consisted of two hair washing stations, two stand-alone chairs and a rusty old manual exercise bike all lit with a single fluorescent bulb.

My worries continued… where am I soaking my feet, will they be able to see and apply the polish? And, is this place legit? The older daughter finished my manicure while the younger daughter brought over a basin and started collecting all the necessary accessories and implements needed for a pedicure and laying them in front of me. At first, I thought, how cute, the little sister is helping out her big sister. When the young girl rolled up her sleeves and put on disposables gloves I thought even cuter, she’s trying to emulate her sister.

But what happened next was the younger sister sat down in front of me on a stool, took one of my feet and began the pedicure.  What transpired over the next 45 minutes was one of the best orchestrated and thorough pedicures I have ever received. In fact, I was so impressed that I gave her a tip (tips are rarely given even in salons). She beamed a wide smile at me and flushed a little the money hit her palm. My one hope is that I haven’t enabled her with my appreciation and she is now considering becoming a cosmetologist at the ripe old age of 13 instead of continuing with her schooling.

 

 

 

by AnnaD

Sunset Walk in Madrid

 

After a lovely day at the Thyssen Museo and a nice meal, we headed back out for an even nicer sunset walk. We walked towards the river and ended up at the Jardine de Puentes de Toledo, a huge park / garden with eclectic landscaping and wide pathways providing plenty of space for walkers, joggers, dog walkers, and bikers to share the space. We walked across a cool steel bridge as the sun was setting and we captured the gorgeous pink and orange hues in the sky. It was a magnificent scene and a balmy 60 degrees on a mid-February evening.

 

 

by AnnaD

Thyssen-Bornemisza Museo

 

We went to the Thyssen Museo today, one of the major art museums in Madrid.

They have an amazing collection and I can easily say this is my favorite among the three big museums in Madrid. The museum has artwork from the 1600’s all the way up to mid 20th century. There’s a little bit of everything for everyone and is a must see. I think I was drawn to it since it featured quite a bit of artwork from 1880-1920 one of my favorite periods with artists like Alfred Sisley, Degas, and Renoir which I likened to my all time favorite museum, Musee d’Orsay in Paris which still holds first place in my book. Thyssen also had artists from the Cubist era like Popova and Hassam from the Impressionist period.

We ended up leaving around 4pm which didn’t provide us with many options for lunch since many places close down by that time, but we did happen upon a trendy cocktail restaurant that was also still serving food.

I imbibed on a perfectly balanced negroni and welcomed the refreshing beverage since I have been having rosado wine with most meals.  We split three dishes, one of which was baby lima beans over oil olive covered with jamon iberico (pic 1 on the bottom row). It was truly wonderful.

 

by AnnaD